Woman's '"Flying Saucer" Dress, spring/summer 1994 (heat-set polyester plain weave)

Issey Miyake transcends both his Japanese heritage and his training in Western couture to redefine the concept of clothing and reinvent the activity of wearing clothes. His "Flying Saucer" dress pays homage to American sculptor Isamu Noguchi (1904-1988), who was the designer's hero, close friend, and mentor. Miyake credits Noguchi with teaching him everything he knows about space and proportion. Like Noguchi's Akari light sculptures, Miyake's tubular dress looks more fragile than it is. While the dress becomes an extension of the wearer, taking its shape from the body beneath, its eccentric silhouette is due to the nature of the permanently pleated polyester fabric and the seamed construction of the garment. The dress, which simply pulls on, returns to its preset shape after wearing and washing, and is easily stored in its collapsed, accordion-pleated form.